src=" An in-depth look at the Fuji X-T1 autofocus capabilities
Fujifilm camera tips and tricks

Date: 05/06/2014 | By: Mathieu

Let’s shoot some action! – An in-depth look at the Fuji X-T1 autofocus capabilities

X-T1, 1/30, f/ 22/1, ISO 100

Let’s shoot some action! – An in-depth look at the Fuji X-T1 autofocus capabilities

Note: in June 2015, Fujifilm released the firmware version 4.00 that adds several new features concerning the autofocus. You can read my in-depth review about it here.

In my opinion, there are two ways to evaluate the autofocus of a camera. The first is to leave everything to the camera. You point and shoot and see how the camera software/hardware behaves. The second way is to understand how the camera works to get the most out of it. This requires not only more patience and time, but also the presence of various, and sometimes difficult, conditions to truly understand what the camera’s limits are.

A couple of weeks ago, The Camera Store released an interesting comparison video between the four MILC cameras that claim to have the fastest AF in the world. The Fujifilm X-T1 proved to be the least efficient of the four. Is it bad? That all depends on how you choose to interprete these results. In that particular video, for example, the fact that the OM-D E-M1 was the best of the four for continuous AF tracking and buffer capabilities was, in my opinion, a far more interesting result than the final ranking itself.

So back to the X-T1: if it ended up in last position, does that mean it can’t do the job?

X-T1, 1/1000, f/ 45/10, ISO 400
X-T1, 1/1000, f/ 4.5, ISO 400

Note: this article contains GIF animations.

First thing: check for firmware updates

If you decide to shoot with Fujifilm cameras, firmware updates are very important because they do bring essential improvements. I decided to test the X-T1 for action last weekend when there were lots of sports events in town including a marathon and bike races. I managed to borrow an XF 55-200mm f/3.5-4.8 lens which is currently the fastest telephoto zoom available for the X system.

I immediately started the test with the camera by going to The Bike Republic where I shot a BMX competition. When reviewing the pictures later on in the evening, the results were a little bit disappointing as many shots were out of focus.

One bad example with the lens firmware 1.10
One bad example with the lens firmware 1.10

I then checked to see if there was a firmware update for the lens and it so happened that version 1.11 was available (the lens had version 1.10).


The next day I went back to the same event and, like magic, I got far better and more consistent results with continuous autofocus.

The next day with the firmware 1.11. Here I had a slower shutter speed but you can see that the subject is in focus.
The next day with the firmware 1.11. Here I had a slower shutter speed but you can see that the subject is in focus.

Second thing: understand the camera settings

Shooting sports means combining different settings in order to get the best performance out of the camera. This is even more important with the X-T1 because the camera doesn’t offer true tracking capabilities. When I say this, I mean that the X-T1 doesn’t have an AF-C Tracking mode where the focus point will move automatically within the frame, following the subject according to its contrast or its colours. So if you don’t keep the subject within the focus point that you set, the camera will automatically focus on something else.

The best way to track a subject then is to use a relatively large focus point that can be adjusted with the front dial on the grip when selecting the focus point position.

E-M1, 1/15, f/ 2/1, ISO 800
The 9 phase detection points at the center.

The larger the point, the more margin the camera has. This proves that knowing the camera is important because for example, with the Olympus OM-D E-M1, it is the opposite: the smaller the focus point is, the more accurate AF will be. Every camera has its own logic.

Another important setting to turn on is the Better Performance option under the Power Management menu. It will decrease battery life but improve AF speed.

E-M1, 1/30, f/ 2/1, ISO 800
High Performance must be set to on.

The X-T1 has two continuous shooting modes (CH and CL). CH will allow you to shoot at 8fps in AF-C while CL is significantly slower. Also, in CH mode you can only select the focus point position within the 9 phase detection points the sensor possesses in the center. This means that the camera will only focus within the frame center area. In CL, the other contrast detection points are also available but if you choose one of them, the AF is less effective and accurate at tracking.

The drive dial control
The drive dial control

You can either select a single AF point or the Multi mode. With the latter, the camera will choose the best AF area automatically. While I find the results with Multi fine concerning AF accuracy, the camera’s reactiveness isn’t as good. Also, when aiming and pre-focusing by half pressing the shutter button, the camera will first shorten the focus distance, then increase it again to lock onto the subject. That back and forth movement can be too slow when shooting in the middle of an action-packed scene.

So to sum up: AF-C, single large AF point, CH burst mode.

Make sure to select focus priority for the AF-C mode in the menu so that the camera only fires when the focus is locked. I also activated the pre AF option, meaning that the camera focuses even when the shutter is not being pressed. That way I found the AF more reactive.

Finally, buffer (the camera’s ability to keep shooting while storing files on the SD card) is also very important. Its speed will of course depend on which SD card you are using. The X-T1 is the first camera to be compatible with SDXC(UHS-II) type cards which offer more than 200MB/s of writing speed. So for the best performance, that’s what you need.

However, if you have slower memory cards like me (Sandisk Extreme – 80MB/s), a good option is to shoot JPG only. With that configuration the X-T1 allowed me to shoot continuously for enough time, while with the RAW+JPG configuration it would stop after the first 9-10 shots. Shooting JPG only isn’t a problem for me because in this case I ended up with thousands of photographs and having a RAW version for each of them would definitely mean switching cards often during the day. Also, for every action you shoot, you will end up using only a couple of images in the end. If you are doing it for work, chances are that this image must be sent quickly, so having a JPG ready on-camera is more convenient.

Third thing: understand the action

E-M1, 1/6400, f/ 12/10, ISO 200
At the Bike Republic event

Shooting sports isn’t easy. You have to know a little bit about the sport and understand what’s going on in the action. If a subject suddenly changes direction and you are not prepared for it, it will be out of your frame in less than one second.

I do not shoot sports for a living, so I haven’t got enough experience to share interesting tips and tricks, also because I believe it depends on which sport you are talking about. Tracking a marathon man is easier because he follows a straight line. Shooting BMX bikers and all the different stunts they do is harder if you don’t know which stunts they perform. So at the beginning I composed a larger frame and zoomed in only when I had developed a sense of the potential moves they would make.

X-T1, 1/850, f/ 45/10, ISO 500
X-T1, 1/850, f/ 4.5, ISO 500

Naturally, the better you are able to track a subject, the more you are “helping” the camera do its job well. And believe me, if you are not used to it, keeping a marathon runner at the center of the frame isn’t that easy and requires a little bit of practice as well.

X-T1 in action, chapter 1: subjects coming toward me

The most “classic” test one can begin with is tracking a subject coming toward the camera. For this test, I had the chance to shoot both the Turin Half Marathon and the Cyclocross race at The Bike Republic event.

X-T1, 1/800, f/ 48/10, ISO 500
X-T1, 1/800, f/ 4.8, ISO 500
X-T1, 1/2200, f/ 48/10, ISO 500
X-T1, 1/2200, f/ 4.8, ISO 500
X-T1, 1/500, f/ 48/10, ISO 200
X-T1, 1/500, f/ 4.8, ISO 200
X-T1, 1/1100, f/ 48/10, ISO 200
X-T1, 1/1100, f/ 4.8, ISO 200

I can say very easily that the X-T1 didn’t have any particular problems following a single subject. I got an average of 90-95% of the pictures in focus for every burst shoot, and more than once a 100% positive result, even when the subject got very close to me.

X-T1, 1/1250, f/ 48/10, ISO 400
X-T1, 1/1250, f/ 4.8, ISO 400

When shooting a group of people, the camera occasionally changed focus between them but I must say that overall it performed well. The X-T1 has a Motion Predictive AF, meaning that the camera will calculate speed, acceleration and deceleration in order to predict the distance of a moving subject. It is not perfect but it works better than I thought (also in Multi AF mode) but as I explained earlier, I prefer to use the single AF point.

The more precise your settings are, the better results you get.

X-T1, 1/340, f/ 48/10, ISO 200
X-T1, 1/340, f/ 4.8, ISO 200
X-T1, 1/1200, f/ 45/10, ISO 400
X-T1, 1/1200, f/ 4.5, ISO 400

In the example below, the X-T1 switched focus between the two runners three/four times. In this case it wasn’t a problem because the two men were very close together. With more distance between them, the difference in focus distance would have been more pronounced.

X-T1, 1/850, f/ 48/10, ISO 400
X-T1, 1/850, f/ 4.8, ISO 400

Again, the important thing is to keep the subjects within your focus point. If they go outside of it, the camera will only hold on for a very brief moment before it starts changing the focus distance unless you can adjust your frame quickly enough, as you can see in the example below.

X-T1, 1/850, f/ 45/10, ISO 400  X-T1, 1/850, f/ 45/10, ISO 400

With the Cyclocross race, my conclusions are the same: the X-T1 tracks faster subject like a biker very well. Unfortunately I couldn’t test a car race as well but I’m confident that it can reproduce the same results.

X-T1, 1/600, f/ 4.8, ISO 200
X-T1, 1/600, f/ 4.8, ISO 200

The only limit I could see in this type of scenario was when I started to track the subject when it was already at a close distance. The X-T1 proved slow in locking and tracking, allowing me to capture only a couple of pictures that most of the time were out of focus anyway. So the best solution is to start tracking the subject when he/she is still far away (when he or she fills the frame from head to toe).

X-T1 in action, chapter 2: subjects moving perpendicular and in different directions

The Cyclocross race gave me other interesting scenarios to test. For example, in one particular section of the track, the bikers had to constantly change direction in a crowded space (serpentine). Since X-T1 doesn’t have true tracking capabilities, I had to be very precise in keeping the subject in the center and I missed some shots. Moreover, there were also lots of disturbing elements like barriers in the fore and background, coloured tape and other elements. The X-T1 confused the subject with the background several times like in the example below.

X-T1, 1/1250, f/ 47/10, ISO 200
X-T1, 1/1250, f/ 4.7, ISO 200
X-T1, 1/1250, f/ 47/10, ISO 200
X-T1, 1/1250, f/ 4.7, ISO 200
X-T1, 1/1250, f/ 47/10, ISO 200
X-T1, 1/1250, f/ 4.7, ISO 200
X-T1, 1/1250, f/ 47/10, ISO 200
X-T1, 1/1250, f/ 4.7, ISO 200

A busy background confused the X-T1 in other situations as well. For example at the marathon, I noticed the same issue a couple of times when I was panning to follow a runner.

X-T1, 1/1200, f/ 48/10, ISO 500
X-T1, 1/1200, f/ 4.8, ISO 500
X-T1, 1/1200, f/ 48/10, ISO 500
X-T1, 1/1200, f/ 4.8, ISO 500

Another example is with the BMX competition, which was in a tight space. For example I found that many of the shots taken with the brick wall in the background actually had the wall in focus and not the biker. In most of the shots the difference is barely noticeable because of the f/4.8 aperture and the short distance between the subject and the wall. I wonder what would happen with a f/2.8 constant aperture zoom.

X-T1, 1/500, f/ 42/10, ISO 250
X-T1, 1/500, f/ 4.2, ISO 250

I also tried some shots with the XF 10-24mm f/4 and I got very good results especially when panning. Given the very closed aperture, it is hard to get something out of focus anyway (not counting the blurry effect due to the slow shutter speed of course).

What is really great with the X-T1 is the 8fps in AF-C.

It is very fast and allows you to easily capture every step of the action without missing anything. After the first day, I tended to start shooting with some delay to capture the essence of the action only, so that I ended up with fewer photos per scene.

X-T1, 1/30, f/ 22/1, ISO 200
X-T1, 1/30, f/ 22, ISO 200
X-T1, 1/60, f/ 18/1, ISO 200
X-T1, 1/60, f/ 18, ISO 200
X-T1, 1/30, f/ 8/1, ISO 800
X-T1, 1/30, f/ 8, ISO 800

Another great test was indoors at a Bike Polo match. It was very interesting because there was less light available and it meant following an action that constantly changed direction, the number of subjects, and the number of elements in the front and rear. In that situation the X-T1 surprised me. It really did a good job at keeping the action in focus.

X-T1, 1/400, f/ 36/10, ISO 2500
X-T1, 1/400, f/ 3.6, ISO 2500

The only limit I encountered was when a subject or an element entered the foreground. The X-T1 changed the focus distance almost immediately, except in some rare situations where the element only appeared for a very brief moment.

X-T1, 1/400, f/ 3.5-4, ISO 2500
X-T1, 1/400, f/ 3.5-4, ISO 2500

X-T1 in action, chapter 3: low-light conditions

A couple of months ago I remember reading a very good article from our Italian friend Giampiero Marchiori who tested the X-T1 in a theatre with the XC 55-230mm f/4.5-6.7mm. I was curious to try the X-T1 in the same type of conditions.

I got the chance to do so later on this week thanks to the Egri-Bianco Dance company that premiered its last show of the year. I was called to shoot the video for the show so I tested the X-T1 during the rehearsal. This means that I cannot share the same number of pictures with you. Instead I will publish only a couple to show you that the X-T1 performed very well even in challenging light conditions or in other difficult situations like the one with the white sheet below.

X-T1, 1/125, f/ 45/10, ISO 6400
X-T1, 1/125, f/ 4.5, ISO 6400
X-T1, 1/125, f/ 45/10, ISO 6400
X-T1, 1/125, f/ 4.5, ISO 6400
X-T1, 1/100, f/ 44/10, ISO 6400
X-T1, 1/100, f/ 4.4, ISO 6400

Now in these situations, there are some limits that aren’t strictly camera related.

For this kind of work you need fast lenses. I had to set ISO up to 6400 in order to keep a “safe” shutter speed. But this shows the potential that the X-T1 has. One particular moment surprised me, and this was during the show’s finale where only one dancer was left on the scene. During his rehearsal he wore a dark shirt and was running in circle. I followed him, meaning that the X-T1 was tracking a dark subject against a dark background. The results were mixed but I would have expected far worse. In part, the bad pictures were also related to the 1/100 shutter speed. I can also say that I’ve seen other MILC cameras perform far worse than the X-T1 in this kind of situation.

The only real flaw I noticed in this situation was that the camera started shooting when the picture was still way out of focus and failed to adjust. It was as if the camera was set to shoot priority instead of focus priority. So I guess that in low-light conditions the camera has the tendency to become more confused at certain times.

Lacking a true AF tracking mode is also limiting when for example you want to keep two dancers inside your composition. You have to quickly and manually adjust the focus point on one or the two dancers. It works for slow action but less if they are moving fast.

Face detection: good for tracking?

In a group situations, I wouldn’t use the face detection option as it can change the focus point too often. But for a single subject, it might work.

When I reviewed the XF 56mm f/1.2, I took a series of continuous shots of Heather walking in the rain. The results weren’t 100% perfect but it showed some potential. I honestly don’t remember if I had the Better performance option turned on at the time so that might have affected the results a little bit. I wouldn’t trust it for fast moving subjects but it can be of some help in certain situations.

X-T1, 1/1000, f/ 2.8, ISO 400
X-T1, 1/1000, f/ 2.8, ISO 400

The Fuji X-T1 autofocus: conclusion

There are of course other interesting kinds of action shots that can be used to test the camera further but I think that these examples are already enough to write an interesting conclusion.

Do the X-T1’s AF capabilities deliver?

My opinion is that, yes, it does, and it does it well. It isn’t the fastest, and there are still some limits and aspects that can be enhanced. If you are a professional photographer who shoots sports for a living, the X-T1 wouldn’t be the first camera I’d recommend. But if you are a sports shooter, you probably don’t need me to tell you that anyway.

Let me add that it isn’t just a question of the camera itself. For the X system we also need faster telephoto lenses. The 50-140mm f/2.8 is coming (end of the year) and that will certainly improve the camera’s capabilities a little bit because history has taught us that every new Fuji lens has a faster AF than the previous lenses.

The only thing the camera really lacks is a more advanced tracking capability. It would be helpful for the composition as you wouldn’t be overly concentrated on keeping the focus point on your subject when tracking. However I am confident that this will come in future camera releases. The improvements regarding AF throughout the years can only lead me to think that in one year or two, with more lenses, the X system will be terrific for sport photography.

X-T1, 1/1500, f/ 45/10, ISO 400
X-T1, 1/1500, f/ 4.5, ISO 400

You will notice that I didn’t talk about AF-S.

Not that it is less important, but I can simply says that it works. Again, it might not be as fast as an OM-D E-M1 or a Lumix GH4, but it is fast enough for 99% of the situations you’ll find yourself in. It is slightly less effective in low-light conditions as with every other MILC cameras that I’ve tried (including the best ones), and yes, sometimes it is a little but slow to react, but the X-T1 still remains the best Fujifilm camera regarding AF. The differences between it and other MILC models really are minimal.

The X-T1 works if you understand that when it comes to autofocus, the photographer can have a significant impact on its performance.

Let me explain this with a final example: for the BMX race, instead of using AF-C for the stunts, I could have stuck with AF-S, pre-focused on the ramp, locked it and shot when the subject started to “fly in the air”. A simple old technique that will always work regardless of the camera you use.

X-T1, 1/500, f/ 42/10, ISO 320
X-T1, 1/500, f/ 4.2, ISO 320

A big thanks to Chiara for giving me a media pass for the Bike Republic event and Cristian at MCdigital camera store.

You can find the Fujifilm X-T1 on, and

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About the author: Mathieu Gasquet

Mathieu Gasquet is a professional photographer with French and Italian origins. Besides running his own video and photography studio 3Dit Lab, he is also the official photographer for the National Cinema Museum in Turin. You can follow him on Google+, Twitter or Facebook!

  • Mathieu

    The A7s doesn’t have phase detection. I do not find it really good in AF-C or tracking either. But in AF-S it’s fine at least with the 55mm 1.8. I had similar back and forth movements with the 35mm 1.4.

  • George Kalogeris

    I am afraid I do have the problem (or all mirrorless do have it).
    My a7s is gorgeous in Low Light, portraits, street, weddings, moments, I use it every day, in job and in family.
    But as far as AF, I am totally disappointed. It keeps moving back and forth even in stationery subjects. Face detection and 3D tracking helps a lot but they are far than perfect. The target needs to move gently or else it’s lost. My D810, even a friend’s d750 is far superior in that aspect. I believe it has to do with their limited Phase Detection capabilities.

    So I ended up using zeiss ZM lenses and Voigtlander, which are great (didn’t try 3rd party lens with Fuji)
    I am having fun using MF, but I have to admit the type of photography I can do is not the same any more, I can’t catch something in a blink of an eye, so I pretend to be more intellectual photographer! There are pluses and minuses in that decision, worst thing is I feel blackmailed by my camera.

    P.S. Speaking of MF usage, I really miss the huge, bright EVF of Fuji :-)

  • Mathieu

    Well if you didn’t like it I can understand. As far as I try to be as objective as possibile in my articles, there will always be other people that don’t find the same results as I do or simply don’t like the camera :)
    How do you find the A7s?

  • George Kalogeris

    sold it :-( for an a7s
    I heard a new firmware is coming out , I should have waited.

  • Mathieu

    Do you still have your X-T1?

  • Mathieu

    I could also add that there are pro photographers that use the X-T1 for sports. This article lists a few of them:
    I also recently used the X-T1 again for a bike race and it works. It is not perfect but it works.

  • George Kalogeris

    “You cannot expect the X-T1 to perform better than a D800.”

    That’s the only point I am pointing out. X-T1 is the best thing Fuji has to offer it smells Pro-grade, but if you come from high end dslr you ‘ll feel disappointed especially in AF

  • Mathieu

    I don’t think that the article is misleading. The goal was to show what the X-T1 can do in real conditions and with proper action situations and not just one quick test following a car like other websites do. The examples are right there on the article and I do say that it isn’t as fast as a DSLR but it can work.
    Now it is difficult for me behind my computer screen to understand why the camera gives you so much trouble. I tested it with the 56mm and I had no problem following someone walking towards me. It might be less effective with a child running because he’s faster. A zoom like the 55-200mm or the upcoming 50-140mm might work better for this. Also the face detection probably works better for slower action than faster actions. As for the 23mm I haven’t tested it with the X-T1.
    I know many photographers that use both the X-E2 and X-T1 for weddings. I know that some of them often pre-focus on a scene, that helps the camera to adjust it then without having to change to much the focus distance.
    What it is clear is that it doesn’t react like a DSLR do. And the percentage of missed focus pictures will certainly be low with a DSLR. So it might just be a question of understanding how the camera reacts in different situations. If you expect it to behave the same way as your Nikon it can be disappointing.
    As for 3d tracking I agree with you and that is mentioned as well in the article.

  • George Kalogeris

    Perhaps I am a little exaggerating, I just want to point out that the article is misleading pro photographers so they think that the AF of X-T1 and other MLCs is comparable with that of DSLRs.
    Well, as you mentioned a Pro photographer SHOULD KNOW that this is untrue

  • George Kalogeris

    The only thing I changed now is enlarging the focus point (didn’t know I could do that!)
    All other settings are identical.
    Too much hunting, it even leaves a stationary subject and tries to focus to other things! It keeps searching and searching, it really surprises me when I press the shutter and it gets a sharp image!

  • Mathieu

    Did you try with the AF settings I suggested in the article?

  • George Kalogeris

    I just read all your recommendations regarding AF in X-T1.

    Well, I just entered the X-system with a black X-T1 and XF23 & XF56.
    In short, the picture quality is great and unique.
    BUT I cannot use it in real conditions e.g kids running, people feeling, brides getting nervous.

    AF-C is my worst nightmare

    My other camera is a D800 and it just works perfectly, I never missed a shot.
    With X-T1 I have to re-examine the percentage of lost shots.

    AF-S with re-composing is old enough for me, AF-C without 3D-tracking is also a wicked game.

    Don’t get me wrong, perhaps it’s far better than Sony a7 (slow uncertain AF)
    but this camera does have an appeal for professionals, right?
    Well, As a pro level camera IT IS USELESS.
    As an enthusiast camera (let’s say prosumer) it is the best option of all

  • Mathieu

    The E-M1 can shoot up to 6.5fps in AF-C so the X-T1 is slightly faster but the difference isn’t big. The E-M1 has better buffer capabilities with normal speed SD cards but the X-T1 is compatible with UHS-2 standards so that might help (if you are willing to spend 250$ for an SD card lol).

  • Mike

    Thanks for the reply..
    I don’t think I was very clear on my question;
    Speaking only of the X-T1 vs the E-M1, which is ‘better’ with AF-C? Sound like to me that by tweaking a few settings in the menu, the X-T1 can AF-C @ 8fps with a hit-rate around 80%. The E-M1, however, states that it can only focus-track at 3.5fps.

    Even at 80%, the Fuji could achieve ~6fps of acceptable results.

    Am I missing something?

    I’m getting closer each day to a purchase, and want to make sure I have my facts straight..


  • Mathieu

    Hi Mike. I don’t think that the camera store has a flawed comparison, actually its video is a very good example. But if you do a straight comparison and conclude with a rank, you don’t concentrate on all the scenarios on a single camera only. So the final rank might not be 100% accurate on a real world situation. Yes the X-T1 is certainly behind the E-M1 or the GH4, but that doesn’t mean it can’t do the job. It is like comparing two cameras at high ISOs levels. The first might be better than the second but then you have to think on how many times you need better ISO than the other camera. Because if you don’t, then both cameras will be fine for you regarding ISO and you can’t concentrate on other aspects that in the end will be more important for your decision.
    Answering your question, I have lost of experience with the E-M1 and I can say that I prefer it for autofocus, especially because it has true tracking capabilities. But the X-T1 is not far behind regarding performance and accuracy. I haven’t tested the a6000 enough yet to say more about it.

  • Mike

    FANTASTIC article. Thanks so much for doing this. Certainly helps on my mirrorless quest.

    Obviously, your implementation of updated firmware had an impact, and your discovery regarding the larger spot focus point improved performance as well. That said, do you think the crew at The Camera Store has a flawed comparison?

    Perhaps a better question would be; what are your AF-C experiences with the a6000 and the E-M1 as compared to the X-T1?

    Thanks again!

  • Mathieu

    Oh ok sorry that’s my fault I uploaded the wrong picture. There’s no 1.10 firmware update for the X-T1 😀

  • Henry

    The image in the article shows the body at 1.10

  • Mathieu

    No it is the 55-200mm lens firmware that I updated.

  • Henry

    How did you get the XT1 Firmware 1.10 the current version on the site is 1.00?

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